Growing up in Michigan, I’ve vacationed in Traverse City countless times over the years. My family has a cabin on one of the smaller lakes, so we’d make the trek up ‘Up North’ multiple times a year for long weekends and special celebrations. I always loved the place, but I really appreciated just how special it is after coming back as an adult with fresh eyes.
Traverse City is home to pristine beaches and waterways, more than one hundred wineries and breweries to explore, scenic drives past towering pines and rolling orchards. It also is home to a vibrantly emerging food scene featuring farm-to-table produce and locally produced wine. Despite still being somewhat of a hidden gem nationally, it’s a place I truly think everyone should experience at least once.
If I’ve convinced you so far, keep reading for my full travel guide to Traverse City so you can experience the region like a local.
Things to Know Before Visiting Traverse City
Best Time to Visit
Depending on your interests (and tolerance for the cold!) Traverse City can truly be a yearlong destination.
July and August are the most popular months- the weather is perfect and there’s so much going on. The National Cherry Festival also takes place during early July each year, providing a fun taste of both the local culture and harvest.
The springtime is a very pretty time to visit. The weather is still a little unpredictable this time of year, but spring tends to arrive a little earlier in Traverse City than the rest of the region, and the acres of cherry blossoms are stunning.
Autumn is another great time to visit. Leaves begin changing here around halfway through September and reach their peak colour around a month later. Between the cosy cabin vibes and long scenic drives to see the colours, this is my personal favourite time of year to visit.
If you’re into snow sports, the wintertime can also be a great time to visit. The region has hundreds of miles of trails for snowshoeing, cross country skiing, and snowmobiling. There’s even a little ski resort at Boyne Mountain about an hour’s drive north!
How Much Time to Spend in Traverse City
I always recommend a long weekend in Traverse City to make the most of the trip. There is a lot to do here from hikes and scenic drives, to exploring wineries and spending time out on the lake. There are also dozens of great restaurants to check out while you’re here.
Getting to Traverse City
The easiest way to get to Traverse City is by flying into Cherry Capital Airport, just a quick ten minute drive from downtown TC. There is a surprisingly good availability of regional flights, with regular direct flights to more than a dozen major airports nationally.
Otherwise, your best options are flying into Detroit for a 3.5 hour drive north, or into Chicago for a 5 hour drive. I know it sounds like a long drive, but it’s honestly so pretty once you get ‘up north’ that I promise you’ll hardly mind.
Getting Around Traverse City
To make the most of your time in Traverse City, you’ll definitely need a car. The greater downtown area is navigable by foot and there are lots of great cycling routes, but there are tons of places you’ll miss out on without motor transportation.
If you aren’t already using a car to drive up to Traverse City, I recommend either renting a car at Cherry Capital Airport or carefully planning your trip with a locally operated tour company.
Things to Do in Traverse City
Sara Hardy Farmer’s Market
This is the one place I always make time for during my visits to Traverse City. The market runs twice a week from spring through autumn right in downtown Traverse City. It’s a great place to pick up some local culinary specialties to take home, or some fresh produce if you’re staying a while and cooking at home.
Take a Hike
Taste Your Way Through Cherry Republic
You might think the locals are a little weird for being so obsessed with cherries until you try it for yourself. The Cherry Republic shop on Front Street
Book a Wine Tasting in Mission Peninsula
While it may come as a surprise to find rows of vines in Michigan, Traverse City’s wine scene has been gaining in reputation in recent years. Located on the 45th Parallel – that magical line that runs halfway between the equator and the north pole that makes for optimal wine growing conditions. In fact, it is the same latitude as famed winemaking regions like Bordeaux and Piedmont.
There are several wineries in the area that you can choose from and you really can’t go wrong. Black Star Farms is the first winery you’ll see as you drive up the peninsula, with a great selection of both wines and fruit brandys.
Brys Estate is the first place I take my friends when visiting for the first time. Their views across the bay from the upper deck are spectacular, and their signature strawberry frose is always a hit. (Read about my visit to Brys Estate here!)
Bowers Harbor Vineyards is a more low-key spot, and is one of the oldest in the region.
2 Lads is the northernmost winery on Old Mission Peninsula. Unlike its neighbours, the architecture here is very sleek and contemporary. They have a large focus on biodynamic practices, and their wines are amongst my favourites in the region.
Cruise the M-22
The M-22 is a picturesque highway that hugs the shoreline of Lake Michigan and offers stunning views of vineyards, cherry orchards, and crystal-clear waters. You’ll drive through charming coastal towns like Suttons Bay, Leland, and Glen Arbor before arriving at Sleeping Bear Dunes.
The route continues a bit further south from here, but I personally like to cut back to Traverse City along M-72. Depending on how many stops you make along the way, the loop will take anywhere from 2 to 8 hours, and takes you through all the top highlights of the region.
Browse Front Street
Located in the heart of downtown Traverse City, Front Street is lined with historic buildings and is the hub of the city’s energy. Stroll along the sidewalks to explore unique stores, showcasing everything from handmade artisan crafts to tourist souvenirs.
One of my favourite stores to pop into are On The Rocks, where you can try on handmade jewelry featuring petoskey stones and leland blues. I also recommend checking out Horizon Books, M22, slip.vintage, Kilwins, and Harbor View Lavender.
Get Out on the Water
No trip to Traverse City is truly complete unless you’ve gone out on the water. At the very minimum, you have to at least hit the beach. My personal favourite is West End Beach, a quieter spot at the edge of town.
You can also rent kayaks and paddle boards at pretty reasonable prices from The River Outfitters in town, who offer both short term and long term rates for their gear. The conditions on the lake can change quickly, so ask them to recommend a good spot before heading out.
For a unique experience, consider chartering a boat for a fishing excursion, where the area’s abundant waters teem with steelhead trout and salmon. Although I haven’t done it myself, I have heard great things about going out with the guys from Mega Bite Fishing Charters.
If you’d prefer to totally relax, Two Brothers Sailing Adventures will take you out on the lake and do all the work for you. They have super reasonable rates, and if you bring wine and some charcuterie they will even plate it for you once on board!
Traverse City Film Fest
Formerly one of the most popular film festivals in the country, Traverse City Film Fest has now been revived in a new yearlong format, with a new film screening in the historic State Theatre each week. It still has the high calibre and provocative mix of films as shown during past festivals, just in a yearlong format.
Day Trips from Traverse City
Mackinac Island
Just an hour long drive and a scenic ferry ride away from Traverse City is a charming escape from a bygone era. Once on Mackinac Island, rent a bike or take a horse-drawn carriage to explore the car-free island’s Victorian architecture, fudge shops, and stunning shoreline.
Harbor Springs
The scenic drive along Lake Michigan to Harbor Springs takes about two hours, weaving though cute little lakeside towns along the way. Once there, wander the historic downtown filled with boutique shops, independent art galleries, and little cafes. Make sure to stop for a stroll along the iconic Harbor Springs Pier for picture perfect views of sailboats along the pier.
Sleeping Bear Dunes
Just a quick 40 minute drive to the west, you’ll find yourself in one of the most stunning landscapes in Northern Michigan. You can tour through Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive for panoramic vistas over Lake Michigan, and if the weather is good I recommend taking the short hike through the dunes out to Pyramid Point. Afterwards, head back to the town of Glen Arbor for a bite to eat at The Mill, which quickly became a local’s favourite when it opened earlier this year.
Where to Eat in Traverse City
Farm Club | Design-forward restaurant located on an actual farm just on the outskirts of town. Read about my visit to Farm Club here!
Crocodile Palace | Arguably the best Szechuan food you’ll find east of the Golden Gate.
Bubbie’s Bagels | Freshly baked bagels made from scratch each morning. Build a breakfast sandwich and grab a cup of locally roasted coffee to go and enjoy to enjoy on the water just a few blocks away.
The Flying Noodle | Lively spot for modern Italian located right downtown. They also have a great happy hour.
Forrest | Cosy eatery and wine shop that feels more like you’ve stepped into a dinner party than a restaurant.
Raduno | Neighbourhood delicatessen with locally sourced ingredients and a seasonally evolving menu.
Frenchie’s Famous | Quirky little restaurant that is my family’s favourite place to grab a big breakfast in town.
Modern Bird | Seasonal American restaurant founded by two chefs with a background working in Michelin kitchens.
Pepenero | Elevated Sicilian cuisine rooted in nana’s old recipes featuring seasonal produce and handmade pasta. Great place to go to for a special occasion or date night.
Moomers | Everyone in town obsess over this locally produced ice cream. You can find them in shops all over the region, or visit their farm just outside the city limits.
Boathouse Restaurant | Casually elegant restaurant on Old Mission Peninsula with very pretty views overlooking Bowers Harbor, especially during sunset.
Where to Stay in Traverse City
Delamar
This is the first big luxury hotel to open in town and it really delivered. The hotel sits right on the lake, meaning many of the rooms have truly spectacular views, and it’s also close enough to downtown that you can walk just about anywhere you need to go. For quick trips without a car, The Delamar would be my top pick.
Island View Cottages
Small collection of humble cottages located right on the lake with a sort of old fashioned romance about them. It’s been run by the same family since they were first built back in the 1950s, and you can really feel that in the hospitality during your stay here.
Inn at Blackstar Farms
Tucked into 160 acres of vineyards, orchards, and wooded trails that overlook Suttons Bay, this equestrian outpost literally has it all. The rooms are a little dated in their styling, but the entire experience is nothing short of luxurious. Make sure to visit the Pegasus Bar for a fireside nightcap of Black Star Farms’ own fruit brandy.
Farmstay on AirBnB
I’ve had this adorable little farmstay located just fifteen minutes outside town bookmarked for ages. It’s a gentleman farm rather than a working property – but it has little goats that you can feed, orchards to pick fresh fruit from, and seasonal flower gardens to roam through. The owners also give you the option of setting up a romantic candlelit dinner in the old barn.
Local Specialties to Look Out For
- Cherries
- Ice Wine
- Petoskey Stones
- Lavender Bath Products
- Whitefish Pate (great with a warm baguette!)
