If you know someone who’s been to Thailand, they’ve probably been to Phuket. And for good reason. It’s here that you’ll find powder sand beaches, baby blue islands melting into crashing waves in the horizon, impeccably designed hotels, and some of the freshest food you’ll eat in your life.
This has made it a popular destination for everyone from students on their gap year to billionaires on mega yachts. Along the way, Phuket made itself some strong reputations, some of which it’ll live up to depending on where you go.
Sex tourism, animal exploitation, and petty crime are all very real aspects of any developing destination. Patong in particular is renowned as the ‘party beach’, and is where you’re most likely to encounter the seedier side of the island.
It was a priority for both of us to avoid this by exploring the island through slow and intentional travel, especially because it was my first time in Thailand and the first international trip for either of us in almost two years.
Given the outsize effect that the lockdowns have had on the livelihoods of entire communities of people who were over-reliant on tourism, we also wanted to be sure to intentionally spend our money in businesses that were in turn dedicated to helping those around them as well.
So, with a rather relaxed itinerary ahead of us after a long and weary journey, we arrived in Phuket for what would become two weeks of reconnecting with both the world and ourselves.
Here’s a look at where to stay, dine, and play in Phuket, Thailand:
WHERE TO STAY IN PHUKET
Banyan Tree — We’re still dreaming of our stay in our little villa at the Banyan Tree Phuket. The grounds were immaculately manicured, the service was impeccable, and the sheer quantity of included activities was astounding. We really relished getting up as soon as breakfast opened to snag one of the tables floating over the lake and spend the morning listening to the birds chattering. Next time, we’ll aim to book earlier to ensure we get a villa overlooking the lagoon.
Amatara Wellness Resort — Really beautiful resort facilities with panoramic views of Cape Panwa. Our only complaint is that it didn’t quite seem to have its footing back yet post-lockdown, and there were quite a few parts of the resort that needed a little facelift. That being said, the views were incredible and we loved the close proximity to Phuket Town while also feeling a million miles away.
Como Point Yamu — In a swanky residential area with sleek modern architecture and stunning views of the islands beyond. Your stay includes access to the Como Beach Club on nearby Naka Island, which can be visited by a quick complimentary ferry through concierge. Nothing is exactly walking distance, but its a quick drive to just about anywhere on the island – particularly the marina for boat trips!
The Racha — Good choice for a true beach escape, as you’ll need to catch a ferry every time you want to go to the mainland – but between the dining, beaches, and water sports you’ll hardly miss it. They actually have a dive centre in the resort with the option to become PADI certified in a dozen different areas.
Trisara — Understated luxury in Phuket’s ‘Millionaire’s Row’ accessible only through a windy road that ziggs down to it’s own private cape. The setting oozes with romance. It’s hard-to-reach location makes it a destination better suited for enjoying over a longer period rather than a home base for exploring the rest of Phuket, though.
There are a few other hotels that we didn’t visit during our trip but would love to in the future: Rosewood Phuket, Amanpuri, Sri Panwa, Keemala.
WHERE TO EAT IN PHUKET
Black Ginger — The restaurant is located in the middle of a moody lagoon illuminated by torches and reached only by ferry. It’s a memorable experience with a wonderfully creative tasting menu.
Torry’s Ice Cream — This cute little ice cream parlor is located on one of the most photogenic little streets in Phuket Town. They’ve got all the classics, as well as more interesting Thai flavours like butterfly pea and durian that kept me coming back for seconds (and truthfully, thirds!).
Baba Nest — Swanky rooftop venue that requires bookings as far in advance as possible. It’s a great excuse to dress up, and the premium is well worth it for the jaw dropping views over Cape Panwa. If you can’t manage a reservation on the roof, the resort also has several waterside tables on the ground floor as well.
The Cove — Tucked in the southernmost part of the island with picture perfect views over Ao Yon beach, The Cove has a laid back vibe with a delicious and affordable selection of western and Thai dishes.
Moo Da Bua — This is a really lunch spot that’s extremely popular with the locals. The food is pretty good, but most people come for the photo shoot opportunities atop the floating giant lily pads.
Pru — The only Michelin starred restaurant on Phuket – and certainly the most beautiful Michelin starred setting I’ve been to. From the entrance to Trisara, you’ll take a buggy ride down the windy hillside all the way down to the beach below. If you’re looking for something a little more low key, they also do great ‘golden hour’ specials on the deck.
Nitan — This restaurant is the home of Thailand’s best up-and-coming chefs with contemporary tasting menus highlighting local ingredients. Make sure to book in advance.
Blue Elephant — This is admittedly a bit of a tourist trap – but the food is delicious, the service is attentive, and sitting on the verandah of the old colonial building is incredibly romantic. There’s also an on-site cooking school if you’d like to learn to make their famous massaman once you’re home.
WHAT TO DO IN PHUKET
Sail The Andaman — Boat tours in Phuket are certainly not hard to find, but Simba Sea Trips was our favourite for two main reasons. First, the tour leaves early – the kind of early that requires flashlights to board the boat. That means that you not only get to witness a gorgeous sunrise from the middle of the sea, but that you get to experience everything before the rest of the tourists have even left the port. Second, the tours are organised by a retired film studio location scout from LA – so you know the places you’re going truly are well curated.
Bang Pae Waterall — This pretty spot is located at the end of a well marked hike in the middle of Phuket’s last remaining rainforest. Go early in the day to beat the crowds, then grab lunch at Paengprai after.
Gibbon Rehabilitation Project — Located conveniently just beside the trailhead for the waterfall, visiting GRP is a perfect way to round out the day. It was incredible to be so close to this elusive endangered species (we even got to see a wild gibbon who had come back to visit his dad!). The site has normally been closed due to covid, but we were able to book a private tour in exchange for a small donation.
Chalong Bay Rum Distillery — You’ll see this rum offered all over Thailand! The distillery offers tours and cocktail classes, and makes for a great backup plan for the inevitable rainy day.
Phuket Elephant Sanctuary — Elephant experiences in Thailand are dime a dozen, and ‘ethical’ ones seem to be popping up more and more often. We decided to spend our time here because of their elevated viewing platform (the only of its kind in Phuket!) that allows visitors to see the elephants in a truly non-interventional way.
Oasis Spa — We checked out a lot of spas during our time in Phuket, and this was by far my favourite for a perfect balance of value and luxury. They have several locations throughout the island so you’ll never be too far away!
MY FAVOURITE BEACHES IN PHUKET
Ao Yon — This is truly one of my favourite beaches in the entire world. It’s a local favourite for a reason, with tranquil scenes of fishing boats bobbing past the craggy islands in the distance.
Banana Beach — A well hidden beach tucked beyond a small hike down a craggy mountainside. This little slice of paradise is well worth the effort getting to it, just make sure to bring your own water and snacks.
Laem Beach — Accessible only by a little boat on the much more crowded Surin Beach. There’s one small restaurant perched along the cliffside with the usual menu choices – stay for the sunset, but make sure you don’t miss the last boat back!
TRANSPORTATION AROUND PHUKET
If you’re only going on a few short trips to highly populated areas, I’d recommend using a local app called Grab that I wrote about here. We did for the first few days before meeting one driver in particular who was absolutely phenomenal so decided to cut out the middle man and arrange a day hire rate directly through her.
Kwanjai’s car was impeccably clean, her driving felt safe, and she was always arrived a bit earlier than the time we’d arranged to meet. If you’re interested in arranging transportation with her, she speaks great English and can be contacted directly on whatsapp at +66 80-535-7629.
This guide has been updated for 2023.
