Drinking Tea in China’s Oldest Teahouse

There are certain places in Tongli where time folds in on itself, and Nanyuan Teahouse is one of them. Built in 1898 and still pouring tea more than a century later, it sits at the meeting of two canals, shaded by old camphor trees and open to the hum of the town. Inside, the pace slows: cups are poured, stories are told, and the day lingers just a little longer.

Step through the doors and you feel both the weight of its history and the ease of its everyday rhythm. The scent of fresh leaves drifts through the rooms, windows open to the water outside, and the whole place seems to move in time with the steady pour of tea. It feels alive in a way few historic spaces do, still woven into the daily rhythm of the town.

Know before you go

  • Name: Nanyuan Teahouse (南园茶社, sometimes called South Garden Teahouse)
  • Built: 1898, late Qing Dynasty
  • Claim to fame: Considered the oldest continuously operating teahouse in China
  • Location: In the heart of Tongli Ancient Town
  • Experience: Tea service, local snacks, occasional pingtan (Suzhou storytelling and ballad performance)

A teahouse with history

Nanyuan has been serving tea since 1898, making it one of the oldest still in operation anywhere in China. Its location was once the busiest part of town — a canal junction where boats moored at dawn and markets filled with chatter. Locals called it “Morning Mist at the South Market,” one of Tongli’s eight historic sights.

The teahouse was first known as Fuan, but later took its current name at the suggestion of reformist writer Chen Qubing. He and other intellectuals gathered here regularly, drinking tea, debating politics, and trading poems while barges drifted quietly outside. That tradition of ideas meeting over tea has never really left the place.

What it feels like today

The teahouse still hums with that same rhythm. Downstairs, tables press close to the windows overlooking the canal, where the sound of water mixes with the clink of porcelain cups. Tea arrives with light snacks, steam curling up into the wooden beams, and conversations rising and falling around you.

Upstairs is quieter. The light softens through lattice windows, and the air carries the faint sweetness of tea leaves. Some guests lean over chessboards, others drift into long conversations, the kind that stretch through an entire pot.

In the late afternoons, the rooms often fill with the music of pingtan — a centuries-old Suzhou performance art that blends storytelling with song. The melodies float through the space like another layer of conversation, rising and fading alongside the steady rhythm of tea being poured.

Final note

Nanyuan Teahouse is more than a historic landmark — it’s a place to linger. Sit for an hour and you begin to notice the details: the play of light on the canal outside, the sound of cups being set down, the steady pace of a room that has welcomed guests for over a century. Give it an afternoon and you feel part of that rhythm, woven into the everyday life of Tongli itself.

For more on what to see and do nearby, see my full Tongli travel guide.

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