You’ll see elephants everywhere in Thailand – resting in sanctuaries, carrying tourists, and, most heartbreakingly, standing in chains on the side of the road. It’s mind-boggling that these cruel practices still exist, though I understand the pull. Elephants are incredible creatures, and I wanted to see them too.
After hours of reading and researching, I came to a sobering conclusion: the only way to experience elephants ethically is to see them in the wild – a rare and not always guaranteed encounter.
But let me tell you, nothing compares to the magic of spotting a family of wild elephants ambling across the road just meters in front of you. And if you’re unlucky? Well, you’ll still spend a day immersed in a national park so stunning and teeming with life that it’s been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We had a weekend to spare, and Khao Yai National Park, just two hours from Bangkok, became the obvious choice. We booked a day-and-night safari directly through the National Park office, a package that not only supported local experts but also included all fees, meals, and transportation – everything we needed for a full day of exploring.
Starting the Day
We began our morning bright and early with breakfast overlooking the swaying palms at The Series. As we sipped coffee and watched the world wake up, our guide, Chutchai, pulled up in his open-top Ford Ranger, ready to whisk us away into the jungle.
Our first stop was 30km Viewpoint, a sweeping vista of rolling hills and endless greenery. While I grabbed a coffee from a little shop, Chutchai busied himself setting up a telescope for birdwatching. He pointed out kingfishers and hornbills flitting between the trees, their feathers catching the morning light.
Walking back to the truck, we discovered three monkeys rummaging through the back in search of snacks. Thankfully, all they managed to find was a half-empty water bottle. It was a funny little reminder to keep our food hidden for the rest of the day!
Into the Jungle
The morning was spent driving through the park, stopping whenever Chutchai’s sharp eyes caught movement in the dense jungle. His ability to pick out wildlife – a flicker of leaves here, a faint rustle there – was astonishing. Eventually, we arrived at a small visitor center with a café, a gift shop, and a tiny museum.
After lacing up leech socks (a necessity here), we followed Chutchai over a wooden bridge into the heart of the jungle. Within moments, he pointed out a camouflaged viper coiled in the undergrowth – something we never would have spotted on our own.
For the next two hours, we hiked through dense forest, spotting everything from vibrant insects to shy jungle critters. Chutchai’s knack for finding wildlife turned every step into an adventure. By the time we emerged, drenched in sweat and starving, we couldn’t have been more ready for lunch.
Chutchai took us to a local spot, the kind of place you’d never find on your own, where we devoured plates of home-cooked Thai food. A nearby deer clearly agreed with our taste in food, casually nosing through the compost pile for a snack.
Haew Narok Waterfall
After lunch, we headed to one of the park’s crown jewels: Haew Narok Waterfall. Getting there meant a short hike through the jungle, steep in places but manageable, with bird calls and rustling leaves as our soundtrack.
The reward? A breathtaking view of water plunging 150 meters down jagged cliffs. The mist felt cool on our faces, a welcome reprieve from the midday heat, and the dense greenery surrounding the falls made it feel like a secret paradise.
Chutchai shared bits of folklore and history about the falls and pointed out the best angles for photos – tips we were happy to follow. Standing there, listening to the roar of the water, I couldn’t help but feel small in the best way.
A Miraculous Encounter
As we were leaving Haew Narok, Chutchai got a call over the radio. A family of elephants had been spotted near a beautiful open field not far from where we were. Without hesitation, he steered us in that direction, his excitement as palpable as ours.
The field was stunning, bathed in soft afternoon light, with rolling greenery stretching out in every direction. We parked on the edge of the road, joined by a few other vehicles, and waited in hushed anticipation.
And then, just as if they’d heard our silent wishes, they appeared.
One by one, a family of elephants emerged from the brush, ambling right onto the road just meters ahead of us. They were calm, unhurried, and utterly magnificent, their immense forms casting long shadows on the pavement. We sat in awed silence as they passed, a few of the younger ones playfully nudging each other while the adults stayed close.
It was everything I’d hoped for and more – a moment so wild and unscripted it felt like a gift from the park itself. No enclosure, no trainers, just these majestic animals moving freely in their home.
We stayed until they disappeared back into the trees, leaving only their footprints behind. Even now, it feels surreal to have been so close to them, to witness them living as they should: untamed and unbothered by humans.
Evening Safari
As the sun dipped low, we embarked on the evening portion of our adventure. The hour-long safari was a completely different experience, with the park coming alive under the cover of darkness.
Armed with flashlights, we spotted sambar deer, their elegant forms illuminated by the beams. We were thrilled to see a Malayan porcupine, its shimmering quills catching the light as it scuttled across the road, and a quick flash of an Asian palm civet disappearing into the brush.
High in the trees, owls perched quietly, scanning for prey, while nightjars swooped gracefully through the air. The jungle felt mysterious and alive, a side of Khao Yai most visitors never get to see.
The evening safari didn’t promise elephants, but the glimpse it offered into the park’s nocturnal world was every bit as magical.
Tips for Visiting Khao Yai
- Book the guide. Seriously, it’s worth every penny – they know the park inside out.
- Carry cash. ATMs and card readers are nonexistent in the park.
- Dress for the bugs. Long pants and leech socks are a must.
- Pack layers. The evenings get surprisingly chilly after the sun sets.
- Support local businesses. Whether it’s your guide, meals, or accommodation, your dollars make a difference here.
Plan Your Visit
- Best Time: November–February for cool weather and active wildlife.
- Getting There: 2-hour drive from Bangkok or bus to Pak Chong, followed by a local tour.
- Entry Fees: ~400 THB per adult; typically included with guided tours.
Exploring Khao Yai National Park wasn’t just the highlight of our trip to Thailand – it was a reminder of why ethical travel matters. To see elephants roaming free, wild and unbothered, is something I’ll treasure forever.
Khao Yai reminded me why travel should be intentional – not just about what we take from an experience but what we leave behind. For me, that’s a commitment to seek out more ethical adventures and to share these stories in hopes that others will too.
If you’re inspired to plan your own adventure, check out my full guide to Khao Yai National Park for everything you need to know – from where to stay and what to pack to making the most of your visit to this incredible destination.
