Essential Travel Guide to Big Sur

There’s something about Big Sur that stays with you. Maybe it’s the way the cliffs drop into the Pacific without warning, or the way the fog moves in slow, rolling waves through the redwoods. Maybe it’s the way Highway 1 twists along the edge of it all, every bend revealing another view that feels impossible.

It’s not a town, not a national park, but a stretch of coastline unlike anywhere else. A place where there’s no rush, no service, no real itinerary—just a winding road dotted with old inns, weathered cafés, and turnouts that make you want to pull over and stay a while.

This guide is for those planning a trip to Big Sur, whether it’s a weekend retreat, a Highway 1 road trip, or a long-awaited escape into the quiet. Where to stay, what to eat, which trails lead to hidden beaches, and what you need to know before you go.

Things to Know Before Visiting Big Sur

Location

Big Sur is not a single city or park, but rather a patchwork of public and private lands stretching ninety miles down the ragged coastline from Carmel to San Simeon.

Big Sur isn’t a city, and it’s not a national park. It’s a stretch of California’s Central Coast where the Santa Lucia Mountains rise sharply from the Pacific, leaving little room for anything but Highway 1. Spanning ninety miles from Carmel to San Simeon, it’s a mix of state parks, private lands, and protected wilderness, with only a handful of places to stay and eat along the way.

The closest major airports are Monterey, just ten miles away, San Jose at eighty miles, and San Francisco at one hundred and ten miles. While Monterey is the nearest option, most travelers fly into San Jose or San Francisco for better flight availability and rental car options.

Best Time to Visit

Big Sur changes dramatically with the seasons, from sun-drenched summer afternoons to fog-heavy mornings in the winter.

Spring is misty mornings and wildflowers spilling down the cliffs. Summer is warm, busy, and booked out months in advance. Autumn is the best time to visit—clear skies, fewer crowds, the coastline at its quietest. Winter is unpredictable. Heavy storms roll through, closing roads and reshaping the landscape, but when the rain clears, it’s at its most dramatic—mist rising from the trees, waterfalls crashing onto the sand, the Pacific wild and untamed.

My favorite time to visit is early autumn—crisp, sunny days, lighter traffic, and the ocean breeze still carrying a bit of warmth. Late spring is also beautiful, when cala lilies fill the canyons and wildflowers carpet the bluffs.

Amount of Time in Big Sur

You can drive through Big Sur in a day, but you won’t really feel it. Two to three days is better—time to hike, stretch out on the beach, and stay somewhere that makes you want to linger. If you’re road-tripping down Highway 1, one night in Big Sur works too, as long as you catch sunset, sleep under the redwoods, and wake up with the fog.

One day gets you the highlights—Bixby Bridge, McWay Falls, Pfeiffer Beach, and a meal at Deetjen’s or Big Sur Bakery.
Two days means time for a hike, maybe Partington Cove or Pfeiffer Falls, and space to slow down.
Three days or more lets you get off the beaten path, spend time at Henry Miller Library, or camp along the cliffs with nothing but the ocean in front of you.

Getting Around Big Sur

A car isn’t just the best way to see Big Sur—it’s the only way. There’s no public transportation, no Ubers or Lyfts once you’re past Carmel. Biking is possible, but only for experienced riders willing to take on winding roads and steep climbs.

Highway 1 is the only route through Big Sur. It’s narrow, twisting, and unpredictable, with few places to pull over and no alternate roads if a closure happens.

Driving Tips for Big Sur:

• Take it slow. The road is winding, with blind curves and steep drop-offs. There are no guardrails in some sections, and other drivers (especially tourists unfamiliar with the road) can be unpredictable.
• Watch for wildlife. Deer, bobcats, and even mountain lions are known to cross the road, especially at dawn and dusk.
• Be ready for fog. In the mornings and late afternoons, thick coastal fog can reduce visibility to just a few feet. Drive with your low beams, not high beams, and don’t rush.
• Plan for fuel stops. Gas stations are scarce and expensive. The last affordable places to fill up are in Carmel or Monterey—after that, prices along the coast can be nearly double.

Do You Need Four-Wheel Drive?
No, you don’t need four-wheel drive for Highway 1, but if you plan to take Old Coast Road—a rugged dirt road that cuts inland between Bixby Bridge and Andrew Molera State Park—you’ll need a high-clearance vehicle. The road is steep, narrow, and impassable after heavy rain.

If you’re renting a car, choose something comfortable for long drives with good brakes for the downhill sections, and be sure to check the tire tread before you leave. Convertibles are fun, but be prepared for strong wind, especially on open stretches of the highway.

Best Stops on the Drive to Big Sur

Carmel-by-the-Sea – Tiny cottages, winding streets, and an oceanfront that feels straight out of a storybook. A good place to grab coffee, wander through art galleries, or sit on the beach before the drive.

Point Lobos State Natural Reserve – A quick detour for some of the best coastal hikes in California. Easy trails, turquoise coves, and sea lions barking from the rocks.

Mission Ranch – If breakfast with a view sounds right, this historic inn (owned by Clint Eastwood) has one of the best in Carmel. Rolling pastures, a quiet patio, and the kind of slow morning that fits before the drive south.

Bringing a Dog to Big Sur

Big Sur can be a great place to bring a dog, but not every trail or beach allows them, and the ones that do often have rules. Most state parks here don’t allow dogs on trails, but there are a few good spots where they’re welcome on leash.

Pfeiffer Beach is one of the best dog-friendly places to visit—there’s plenty of space to roam, and the shoreline is wide open, though leashes are required. Garrapata State Park is another good option, with coastal trails and access to the beach south of Gate 19. If you’re looking for a hike, Old Coast Road allows dogs and offers incredible views without the usual highway crowds.

Most hotels in Big Sur don’t allow pets, but Alila Ventana Big Sur is a solid exception, welcoming dogs in their suites and glamping tents. Big Sur River Inn and Fernwood Resort also have pet-friendly rooms. For food stops, Big Sur Bakery, Big Sur Deli, and Nepenthe all have outdoor seating where dogs are welcome.

The main thing to watch out for is poison oak, which is everywhere along trails and roadsides. Keep your dog on a leash to avoid accidental contact. Also, remember that coyotes and mountain lions live in the area, so it’s best not to leave dogs unattended, especially at night.

What to Wear in Big Sur

Big Sur isn’t the kind of place where you dress up for anything, but it is the kind of place where you want to be comfortable and a little weatherproof. Mornings start cold, the kind of damp chill that lingers in the redwoods, afternoons warm up just enough for short sleeves, and by sunset, you’ll want a jacket again.

Layers are key—a fleece in the morning, something light by midday, and a warm outer layer once the wind picks up along the cliffs. Even in summer, the ocean air keeps things crisp, and winter means real rain, the kind that soaks through everything if you’re not paying attention.

Shoes depend on what kind of day you’re having. If you’re hiking, boots or trail runners make sense, but if you’re just stopping at overlooks and wandering down to the beach, worn-in sneakers are fine. Dinner at Deetjen’s or Sierra Mar might call for something a little nicer, but Big Sur is casual. No one’s expecting heels.

And then there’s the road itself. If you’re driving with the top down, bring sunglasses—not just for the sun but for the wind that kicks up along the coast. A hat helps too, as long as it’s one that won’t disappear the second you step out of the car.

Where to Stay in Big Sur

Accommodations in Big Sur are as much a part of the experience as the drive itself. There are no high-rises in Big Sur, no chain hotels, no last-minute bookings. Hotels here are few, scattered between the cliffs and the trees, each one feeling like its own world. Some places have been here for decades, unchanged except for the guests passing through. Others are newer, designed to disappear into the landscape, where the only thing between you and the Pacific is a sheet of glass.

Rooms book out months in advance, sometimes longer. If you’re staying the night, plan ahead. If you’re lucky, you’ll wake up in a cabin tucked beneath the redwoods, a suite balanced on the edge of the cliffs, or a canvas tent warmed by the morning sun.

Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn

Wood-paneled walls, creaky floors, the sound of rain on the roof. Deetjen’s is what Big Sur used to be—quiet, timeless, untouched. No WiFi, no service, just candlelit dinners and slow mornings with hot coffee and thick slices of toast. The rooms are small, but the feeling of being there is vast.

Read more about my stay at Deetjen’s.

Alila Ventana Big Sur

Big Sur at its most refined. Ventana sits high above the cliffs, where the air feels thinner and the views stretch endlessly out to sea. It’s the kind of place where everything feels intentional—outdoor soaking tubs, miles of redwood trails, fire pits glowing against the night. The main property is home to sprawling suites with private decks and ocean views, but for something different, Alila also offers several glamping tents and campsites, where canvas walls and crackling campfires replace four walls and room keys.

It’s also one of the only dog-friendly stays in Big Sur, meaning your best trail companion doesn’t have to miss out.

Other Notable Stays

Post Ranch Inn

Post Ranch Inn doesn’t just overlook the ocean—it seems to float above it. The rooms blend into the cliffs, with floor-to-ceiling windows that pull the Pacific into view. Mornings start with yoga on the deck, evenings with wine by the fire. It’s adults-only, designed for stillness. No TVs, no clocks, just waves against the shore, the smell of salt and cypress in the air.

Big Sur River Inn

A roadside classic, Big Sur River Inn has been here since 1934, the kind of place where locals still come for coffee and a slice of pie. The rooms are simple, the restaurant is familiar, and the best seat in the house is an Adirondack chair set in the middle of the river, feet in the water, drink in hand.

Camping in Big Sur

If you want to wake up with the sound of the waves or fall asleep beneath a cathedral of redwoods, camping is the way to do it. Sites book out fast—Pfeiffer Big Sur, Andrew Molera, and Kirk Creek are the ones to know, each offering something different. Some have river access, others sit on the edge of the cliffs, nothing but a stretch of wild Pacific in front of you.

Where to Eat in Big Sur

There aren’t many places to eat in Big Sur, and that’s part of the appeal. No chain restaurants, no fast food, just a handful of spots scattered along Highway 1—some tucked into the trees, others perched on the cliffs, all of them serving something that tastes better after a long drive. Some are worth planning your day around. Others are best discovered when you’re already hungry, pulled in by the glow of a fireplace or the smell of something baking.

Coast

This is the place I look forward to the most on each visit down. A glass-and-wood café set high above the ocean, it’s the kind of spot where a quick stop turns into an afternoon. The upstairs deck is perfect on a clear day, the fireplace perfect when the fog rolls in. The menu leans light—sandwiches, salads, a perfectly spiced chai—but the real draw is the setting.

Coast is currently closed under new ownership with future plans unclear.

Big Sur Bakery

Tucked behind a stand of cypress trees, Big Sur Bakery is the kind of place where people linger—over coffee, over pastries, over the idea of never leaving. The sourdough loaves sell out early, the wood-fired pizzas come out hot and charred, and even on a weekday morning, there’s almost always a line.

It’s the kind of spot that already felt iconic, but it became something of a cultural landmark after Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss made it a stop on their Big Sur road trip, posting sun-drenched photos of coffee runs and redwoods in the background.

Big Sur Bakery is temporarily closed due to a fire, with plans to rebuild soon!

Deetjen’s

Everything about Deetjen’s feels timeless, and the restaurant is no exception. Candlelit, wood-paneled, with the kind of warmth that lingers long after you leave. Breakfast is hearty—eggs benedict, thick-cut toast, endless cups of hot coffee poured without needing to ask. Dinner is simple and deeply comforting, the kind of meal that feels earned after a day on the road.

For the past two years, it has been awarded Best Restaurant in Monterey County—no small feat in a region with some of the best dining in California. This is a region stacked with world-class restaurants, from Carmel’s fine dining institutions to the seafood legends of Monterey. And yet, Deetjen’s wins. Not for reinventing anything, but for getting it exactly right.

Sushi Jawn

A sushi truck in the middle of Big Sur feels unexpected, but somehow, it works. Sushi Jawn started as a private chef and catering service, bringing fresh, hand-cut sushi to dinner parties and events, but on Fridays and Saturdays, it sets up at Riverside Campground, turning a quiet patch of redwoods into an open-air sushi bar.

Chef Sarah trained under Jo Knai before working for Iron Chef Morimoto, running sushi bars from Philadelphia to the California coast. The menu is tight—just what’s good, just what’s fresh. Rolls, nigiri, poke bowls. No shortcuts, no unnecessary waste, just good fish, prepped with care. On Fridays and Saturdays, you’ll find Sushi Jawn set up at Riverside Campground, serving up sashimi under the trees.

Big Sur Deli

The kind of place you only find if you know where to look—wedged next to the post office, hidden behind the gas station. There’s nothing fancy about it, but that’s the point. It’s where locals stop for breakfast burritos before a long shift, where hikers load up on sandwiches before disappearing into the redwoods, where everything is fast, filling, and cheaper than anywhere else along the coast.

The menu is stacked with classics—eggs and bacon in the morning, towering turkey clubs and tri-tip sandwiches by noon. It’s also the best place to grab a picnic lunch, packed to go. Just don’t forget extra napkins.

Sierra Mar

At the far end of a winding driveway, balanced on the cliffs, Sierra Mar feels almost weightless. The prix-fixe menus are ever-changing, the wine list ten pages deep, the floor-to-ceiling windows giving every table an ocean view. Reservations are required, sometimes weeks in advance. It’s expensive, but it’s special. The kind of place you go when you want the landscape to be part of the meal.

A Few More for the Road

For a quick meal, a good drink, or something easy on the way to somewhere else—here are a few more spots to keep in mind.

Fernwood Tavern – A casual bar and grill tucked inside a redwood-lined campground. Solid burgers, cold beer, and live music on weekends.

Ripplewood Resort Café – A no-frills roadside café with breakfast platters, diner coffee, and a surprisingly good chorizo scramble.

The Sur House – The on-site restaurant at Ventana, open to the public for lunch and dinner. Upscale, but relaxed, with a menu full of local seafood and produce.

Nepenthe Café Kevah – The more laid-back, walk-in-friendly alternative to Nepenthe, with pastries, coffee, and a view that makes everything taste better.

Big Sur Taphouse – A small, easygoing spot for beer and bar food, with a relaxed patio and a mix of locals and road-trippers passing through.

Big Sur Smokehouse – A roadside BBQ spot across from Ventana, serving smoked brisket, pulled pork, and classic sides in a historic red-roofed house.

Glen Oaks Big Sur Café – A quiet café with a locally sourced, seasonal menu, great coffee, and a cozy indoor space for slower mornings.

Best Things to Do in Big Sur

Big Sur isn’t a place you rush through. There’s no itinerary that makes sense here, no perfect order to see things in. It’s a stretch of road where you pull over when something catches your eye, where a quick stop turns into an hour, where plans shift depending on the light, the fog, the way the ocean looks that day. Some places are worth seeking out, others you just come across. These are a few of the ones to keep in mind.

Stop at Bixby Bridge

It’s the shot everyone takes, the one that shows up on postcards and car commercials, but somehow, it still stops you. Built in 1932, Bixby Bridge stretches 260 feet above the canyon, framed by cliffs and open ocean. It’s one of the highest single-span bridges in the world, but that’s not why people pull over. It’s the way it looks against the coastline, the way the road disappears into it.

Most stop at the main pull-off, but for a better view, take the turn onto Old Coast Road. The dirt road climbs into the hills, giving you the bridge in full—suspended between land and sea, exactly where it belongs. Mornings are best before the crowds, evenings when the light turns everything gold.

Visit McWay Falls

A waterfall that drops straight onto the beach, spilling from the cliffs like something out of a dream. McWay Falls is one of the most photographed spots in Big Sur, and for good reason—there’s nowhere else quite like it.

The trail is short, barely a half mile from the parking lot at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. You’ll pass through a tunnel under the highway, then step out onto a bluff with a perfect, unobstructed view. The falls are best at high tide, when the water crashes directly onto the sand, and at sunset, when everything turns soft and golden.

Visit Pfeiffer Beach

One of Big Sur’s most famous stretches of sand, known for its purple sand and the massive rock arch that catches the light just right in the evening. The color comes from manganese deposits in the surrounding cliffs, and while some photos oversell it, the purple streaks are real—especially after a good rain.

Getting there takes a little effort. The turnoff is unmarked, hidden down Sycamore Canyon Road just past Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. It’s a narrow, winding drive to the parking lot, followed by a short walk to the beach. Sunset is when the crowds show up, but on a foggy morning, you might have it all to yourself.

Henry Miller Memorial Library

A bookstore, a music venue, a leftover piece of Big Sur’s old bohemian past. Tucked under the redwoods, the Henry Miller Library is the kind of place that feels like it’s been here forever—stacks of books, a quiet garden, and a mix of locals and travelers who wander in and end up staying longer than they planned.

It’s worth stopping even if you’re not looking for anything in particular. Some days, there’s live music or a film screening under the trees, other times it’s just the sound of the wind moving through the branches. Either way, it’s the kind of place that fits into your day without trying.

Pull Off at the Overlooks

Some of the best stops in Big Sur aren’t on any list. They’re the places you find when something catches your eye, when the ocean looks a little wilder or the cliffs a little sharper. The road twists and turns so much that every pull-off feels like a new vantage point, a different angle on the same endless horizon.

Some of the best ones are just past Bixby Bridge, where the coastline opens up in every direction, or south of Julia Pfeiffer Burns, where the cliffs drop so suddenly that it feels like the edge of the world. No need to plan—just pull over when it feels right.

Hang out in a Creek

It’s easy to think of Big Sur as a place defined by cliffs and ocean, but the best moments sometimes happen in the places in between—the quiet shade of the redwoods, a creek running clear and cold through the canyon. Bring a book, grab a drink, and sink into the water for a while.

The Big Sur River Inn has the full setup—Adirondack chairs right in the water, a menu of easy, unfussy food, and live music on summer weekends. For something quieter, follow the Big Sur River Gorge trail and find a spot of your own. Either way, it’s the kind of stop that makes you slow down, just enough to notice everything around you.

My Favourite Hikes in Big Sur

Big Sur has no shortage of incredible trails, from short walks to sweeping ocean views to longer treks deep into the redwoods. Some lead to waterfalls, others to hidden coves, and a few are just about the hike itself. These are the ones I go back to—routes that offer the best of the landscape, whether you’re looking for a quick morning hike or something that takes up the whole day.

Pfeiffer Falls + Valley View Overlook

A short, well-marked trail through Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park that leads to one of the area’s most accessible waterfalls. The best way to do it is as a loop—head left at the first fork to reach the Valley View Overlook first, where you can look out over the park, then double back and continue on to Pfeiffer Falls.

The whole thing is about two miles round-trip, with just enough incline to make you feel like you earned the view at the top. Best in the morning, before the trail gets busy.

For more information, check out the Alltrails.

Partington Cove

One of the quickest hikes in Big Sur, but one of the most rewarding. The trail is just over a mile round-trip, dropping steeply down from Highway 1 before passing through a tunnel and opening up to the cove. On a clear day, the water is bright turquoise, crashing against the rocks like something out of a different coastline.

The hike back up is steep, but short. If you can time it right, sunset here is something else.

For more information, check out the Alltrails.

More Hikes I Love

Buzzard’s Roost – A steady uphill climb through redwoods to a ridge with panoramic ocean views. Best on a clear day when the coastline stretches for miles.

Andrew Molera Loop – A mix of beach, bluff, and meadow, with sweeping views the whole way. Feels like getting every part of Big Sur in one hike.

Limekiln Trails – Short trails that lead to waterfalls, towering redwoods, and the ruins of old lime kilns swallowed by the forest.

Mill Creek Trail – A quiet, shaded walk through a redwood canyon, following a creek the whole way. Less crowded than other trails, which is part of the appeal.

Soberanes Canyon Trail – A rugged, sometimes overgrown trail that climbs through redwoods before opening up to coastal views. Feels wild in the best way.

Sunset & Stargazing in Big Sur

Big Sur doesn’t just get dark—it feels like the world empties out. Sunset stretches long, cliffs glowing gold before fading into deep blue, the ocean pulling the last light of the day into its waves. And if you stay after dark, the sky here is something else. No streetlights, no city glow—just stars, thick and endless, the kind you forget exist until you’re standing under them.

Best Sunset Spots

• Pfeiffer Beach – The famous keyhole rock lights up at golden hour, turning the waves into glowing ribbons of light. Crowded, but worth it.
• Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn – If you want your sunset with a glass of wine, this is the spot. The view feels endless, the kind that makes dinner last hours.
• Partington Cove – A quieter, more rugged option where the water crashes against the cliffs as the sky turns pink. Best with a flask of something warm.

Best Stargazing Spots

• Old Coast Road – No streetlights, no traffic, just open sky. The road itself is rough, but if you pull over in the right spot, you’ll have the stars all to yourself.
• Andrew Molera State Park – Feels like a front-row seat to the Milky Way. A good place to throw down a blanket and just watch.
• Limekiln State Park – One of the darkest spots in Big Sur, deep enough in the redwoods to feel untouched. No distractions, just stars through the trees.

Sunset or starlight, it’s the same feeling—you pull over, you stop talking, you take it in.

Practical Tips for Big Sur

Big Sur isn’t the kind of place where you can just wing it. Cell service is spotty, gas stations are few, and road conditions can change overnight. A little planning goes a long way.

Mudslides

Mudslides happen. Highway 1 is prone to closures, especially in the wet winter months when conditions quickly change Always make sure to double check the CalTrans Map before you leave.

Cell Service

You’ll seldom find cell service while traveling through Big Sur. Once you leave Carmel, expect to be offline until you’re back. Download maps, write down addresses, and don’t count on GPS.

Gas Stations

There are only four gas stations in all of Big Sur – two in the northern end, and two in the south. Plan your route carefully and top up whenever you can!

EV Charging

There still isn’t great charging infrastructure throughout Big Sur, so you’ll need to carefully plan your trip if you’re in an EV.

There are currently 17 charging ports throughout Big Sur, all of which are located at private luxury hotels. Currently, there are only Tesla chargers installed, and the Post Ranch Inn has two Tesla Superchargers available for guest use.

Poison Oak

Watch for poison oak. It’s everywhere on the trails. Learn to recognize it and stay on the paths.